(Cacique's Molho de Pimenta)

MAKES ABOUT 1 1⁄2 CUPS

This preparation, a Bahian salsa-like condiment, comes from Jubiraci Martins da Silva (aka Cacique), a Salvador native and a friend of author Presilla's. Like Mexican pico de gallo, it's made with fresh tomatoes, onions, chiles, and cilantro, all finely chopped and mixed together with lime juice. Cacique uses the tiny, fiery malagueta chile, which is hard to find in the U.S. Thai chiles make a good substitute; they have a similar pungency and clean flavor.

20 stemmed Thai chiles
5 tbsp. fresh lime juice
3 tbsp. finely chopped cilantro leaves
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium tomato, cored, and finely chopped
1⁄2 small yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt to taste

1. Finely chop chiles and transfer to a bowl. Add lime juice, cilantro, oil, tomatoes, onions, and salt to taste and toss well. Bahian salsa may be kept refrigerated for 2–3 days.