(Erachi Varathathu)

SERVES 4 – 6

Kerala's Muslims make this hearty curry for Ramadan and other special occasions. Soujath Ahsraf of Thrikkakara fixed this dish for us; she serves it with rice-flour flat bread that is dipped into coconut milk, then wrapped around a chunk of curry.

1 1⁄2 lbs. boneless, well-marbled chuck steak,
   cut into 3⁄4" cubes
4 tsp. ground coriander seeds
1⁄2 tsp. ground cumin
1⁄2 tsp. cayenne
1⁄2 tsp. fennel seeds, ground with a
   mortar and pestle
1⁄4 tsp. turmeric
1 1⁄4 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 tbsp. Ghee
1" piece cinnamon stick
3 cloves
18 curry leaves
2 medium yellow onions, peeled
   and thinly sliced
3⁄4" piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 fresh hot green chiles (serrano or thai),
   split lengthwise just up to the stem
1⁄2 tsp. fresh lime juice

1. Put beef, coriander, cumin, cayenne, fennel, turmeric, salt, and 1 cup water in a medium pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until meat is cooked through, 15 minutes. Remove pot from heat, uncover, and set aside.

2. Heat oil and ghee in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add cinnamon and cloves, and fry until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Carefully add curry leaves (the leaves will spatter when they hit the hot oil), and after they have spattered for a few seconds, add onions, and sauté until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add ginger, garlic, and chiles, and cook, stirring frequently, until onions are well browned, about 20 minutes longer.

3. Set aside 1⁄4 cup of the cooking liquid from the meat, then add meat and remaining liquid from pot to the skillet, and cook, stirring frequently, until liquid reduces to a thick sauce that coats the meat and the meat is tender with some chew, 20–30 minutes. (Add a little of the reserved cooking liquid if sauce thickens before meat is cooked.) Remove skillet from heat, and add lime juice and a little more salt, if you like.