Cooks in eastern Long Island have been wrapping bluefish, both whole and in filets, in bacon or slices of salt pork for centuries.

1  5–8-lb. whole bluefish, cleaned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and sliced
Leaves of 1 small bunch fresh parsley
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 lb. sliced bacon

1. Preheat a charcoal grill. Meanwhile, season fish inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff fish cavity with onions, parsley, and thyme. Wrap slices of bacon, slightly overlapping, around center of fish (not head or tail). Transfer fish to the hot grill (charcoal should be glowing red, with white ash and without flames). Cover and grill fish, without turning, until it is cooked through and bacon is golden, about 30 minutes.