The secret to these seasonal pancakes, adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham (Alfred A. Knopf, 1987), is sweet chunks of stewed quince.

2 quinces, peeled, cored, and diced
1⁄4 cup sugar
1 1⁄2 cups milk
2 tbsp. butter, melted; plus additional butter for frying
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1⁄4 tsp. ground ginger
1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1⁄4 tsp. salt
Confectioners' sugar

1. Place quinces, sugar, and 1⁄2 cup water in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until quinces are tender and liquid has almost entirely evaporated, 30–40 minutes. (Quinces will scorch if water evaporates too quickly; check occasionally and add more water if necessary.) Transfer quince mixture to a food processor and purée lightly so that mixture remains chunky. Allow to cool.

2. Place quince purée in a large bowl and stir in milk, melted butter, and egg. Sift together flour, baking powder, ginger, cinnamon, and salt, then add to quince mixture. Stir just until blended.

3. Melt a small amount of butter in a skillet over medium heat. (Cook pancakes in batches, melting more butter in skillet as you go.) Pour about 2 tbsp. batter in skillet for each pancake, allow room for batter to spread, and cook until bubbles appear, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until brown, about another 3 minutes. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately.