SERVES 4 – 6

Here is a spicy variation on a simple cracker puff recipe Clementine Paddleford, an early champion of American cuisine, got from her mother, Jennie.

20 unsalted soda crackers
2 1⁄2 tsp. butter, softened
5 tsp. grated parmigiano-reggiano
Cayenne pepper

1. Preheat oven to 450°. Soak crackers in a medium bowl of ice water, a few at a time, until slightly swollen and soft, about 20 seconds. (Don't soak too long, or they'll disintegrate.) Arrange softened crackers in a single layer on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet.

2. Brush each cracker with 1/8 tsp. butter, then sprinkle each with 1⁄4 tsp. of the grated parmigiano-reggiano and a pinch of cayenne. Bake until slightly puffed and golden, 7–10 minutes.