MAKES 12 RUMAKI

These bacon-wrapped bites of chicken liver and water chestnuts were ubiquitous on pupu platters in the mid-20th century.

3 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1  1" piece fresh ginger, peeled
   and finely chopped
4 chicken livers, cut into thirds
3 water chestnuts, quartered
4 strips bacon, cut into thirds

1. Whisk together soy sauce, brown sugar, and ginger in a small bowl. Add chicken livers and water chestnuts and toss to coat; place in refrigerator to let marinate for 1 hour.

2. Heat oven to 425°. Strain liver and chestnuts, reserving the marinade. Pour marinade into a 1-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat; set aside.

3. Place 1 slice of bacon on a cutting board, then top with 1 piece of liver and 1 water chestnut. Wrap bacon around liver and chestnut; skewer bacon in place with a toothpick. Repeat process with remaining livers, water chestnuts, and bacon. Transfer rumaki to a foil-lined sheet tray and bake, basting occasionally with the marinade, until bacon is golden brown, about 25 minutes.