(Entrecôtes au Poivre Vert)

The recipe for this dish is based on one in Glorious French Food by our friend James Peterson (Wiley, 2002). "Strictly speaking," writes Peterson, "an entrecôte is a boneless rib steak ... but nowadays, in good places at least, [it's] a contre-filet (what in New York is called a strip steak)." Season four 1"-thick strip steaks (about 2 1⁄2 lbs. in all) with salt to taste on a plate, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours. Remove steaks from refrigerator and set aside at room temperature to let rest for 1 hour. Heat 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Pat steaks dry; add 2 to skillet. Cook, flipping once, until well browned and medium rare, 4–5 minutes in all. Transfer steaks to a plate and tent with foil; set aside in a warm oven. Repeat with remaining steaks. Remove skillet from heat and add 2 finely chopped shallots; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 1 1⁄2 cups ruby port; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until mixture is reduced to about 1⁄4 cup, 5–6 minutes. Add 2 cups beef stock; boil until syrupy, 10–12 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; whisk in 1 cup heavy cream. Return skillet to medium heat; boil gently until thickened, 6–8 minutes. Stir in 1⁄4 cup rinsed and coarsely chopped brine-cured green peppercorns, 2 tsp. white wine vinegar, and salt to taste. Pour sauce over steaks. Serves 4.