(Trucha a la Riojana)

SERVES 1

La Venta De Goyo restaurant serves this traditional dish year-round, using native trout when they're in season.

1  3/4-1-lb. fileted cleaned whole trout
Kosher salt
Flour
2 oz. (1-2 slices) serrano ham
Olive oil

1. Make 2 deep slits on both sides of the trout. Lightly season fish inside and out with salt, then dredge in flour, shaking off excess.

2. Tuck ham into fish cavity and tie fish shut with kitchen twine. Pour oil into a large deep skillet to a depth of 1/2" and heat over medium heat until hot but not smoking (about 300º on a candy thermometer).

3. Fry trout, turning once and tipping skillet often, allowing hot oil to seep inside cavity and head, until skin is golden and crisp and fish is cooked through, 4-5 minutes per side. Transfer fish to paper towels to let drain briefly.