ST. SUPÉRY "ÉLU" NAPA VALLEY CALIFORNIA 2003 ($65). Exuberant but not excessive, with a silky finish.

RODNEY STRONG "SYMMETRY" ALEXANDER VALLEY CALIFORNIA 2004 ($55). Powerful yet harmonious, with impressive length and complexity.

FRANCISCAN "MAGNIFICAT" NAPA VALLEY CALIFORNIA 2004 ($50). More deeply flavored than in some vintages, with firm but pliant tannins.

ROBERT HALL "HALL RANCH" PASO RO BLES CALIFORNIA 2005 ($40). Well-balanced and harmonious, though rich and very ripe; a succulent wine.

CASA RONDEÑA WINERY NEW MEXICO 2005 ($23). Delicate but not frail, with nuanced subtlety; a delectable surprise.