SERVES 4

Champagne goes especially well with cream-based soups like this one because the wine's effervescence offers such a pleasing contrast with their silky texture. The recipe for this luxurious bisque is based on one in La Cuisine by Raymond Oliver (Leon Amiel, 1969). We found a full-bodied rosé champagne to be the ideal accompaniment.

12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs thyme
1 fresh bay leaf
1  4-lb. lobster
6 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄4 cup brandy
3 large shallots, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt, to taste
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 cups white wine
5 cups fish stock
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 cup heavy cream
1 tbsp. cornstarch
4 egg yolks
2 tbsp. chopped chives

1. Tie 6 sprigs parsley, thyme, and bay leaf together with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni; set aside. Working over a sieve set over a bowl to collect the lobster's juices, separate claws and tail from body and crack claws. Cut tail into quarters crosswise; halve body lengthwise. Discard intestinal tract and sac behind head. Reserve lobster parts and juices separately.

2. Heat butter and oil in a deep skillet over high heat. Add lobster parts; cook, covered, turning once, until bright red, 6–7 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Pour the lobster-infused butter into a bowl; set aside. Pour brandy over lobster; ignite with a match. When the flames subside, transfer lobster to a plate.

3. Heat reserved lobster-infused butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add remaining parsley, shallots, carrots, celery, garlic, onions, and salt. Cook until caramelized, 18–20 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook until browned, 3–4 minutes. Add wine; cook, scraping up browned bits, 2–3 minutes. Transfer mixture to a large pot. Add reserved lobster and juices, reserved bouquet garni, stock, cayenne, and salt; boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, covered, for 15–20 minutes; remove soup from heat.